DISCOVERING INDIA – Bharat Darshan: A travelogue

“The world is a book and those who do not travel read only one page” -     St. Augustine

The Winter Study Tour or the Bharat Darshan is the climax of the training period in the life of an IAS probationer. While it is impossible to experience the whole of Bharat, for all vastness of its geography, diversity of its culture, richness of its heritage and multitude of its administrative challenges, we did humbly try to touch various aspects of our country in these two months.

Travelling, they say, is the best way to explore a place. But I realized that travelling is also the best way to explore oneself. The outlook that one generates by looking at stark contrasts existent in a single nation, and beyond-the-bookshelf perspectives that are formed by experiencing first-hand the realities on ground are unparalleled. And what can be better way to travel than on a government sponsored tour across the country in a group of 17 likeminded and yet very diverse officer trainees? We clocked nearly 20,000 kilometers across the mountains and plains, rivers and bridges, beaches and coasts, islands and sea, travelling by almost every possible means of transport, visiting close to 18 cities located in 12 different states and UTs, which not only tested the tenacity of our bodies but also minds to cope up with sudden changes in climate, food and languages.

Every journey begins with a small step, and so began ours on 20^th December, 2014 as we left the portals of our academy with starry eyes. We had a 10 day long attachment with Indian Army in Jammu sector. The attachment was the longest in duration that it well deserved. The first thing that caught my attention was the warmth and hospitality of army in those inhospitable conditions. We visited different companies, posted at various forward posts along the fence guarding Line of Control, under 4 different battalions and 2 brigades. Everywhere the discipline, punctuality, sense of duty, dedication and yet the humor and liveliness of jawans and officers amazed us. In these 10 days we watched the life of a soldier from close quarters and also tried to live like one. It was thrilling to see enemy in their posts 100 meters away, ready to pull triggers at first command. We could feel the patriotism oozing in the atmosphere, and the interactions with officers ranging from majors to brigadiers were always inspiring. I still remember one of them passionately telling us about his eagerness to win the whole enemy land for India. It was however sad that such beautiful mountains have been blotted by presence of militants and military and the serenity of the heavenly valleys destroyed by the noises of bombs and guns. We could also sense the disconnect between the civil administration and the military forces which we as members of IAS need to bridge, lest we leave our bravehearts, who protect our borders living away from their families, in discontentment.

We also had visits to the Air Force and Naval Establishments where we tried to understand their roles and responsibilities, apart from getting hands-on experience of their cool machines. But undoubtedly it was the Army that stole our hearts with their passion and professionalism.

We had the fortune of meeting some inspirational seniors like Dr. Krishan Kumar who showed that a dedicated and coordinated administration can even defeat threats like Phailin cyclone. We also met Sh. Alok Shukla, the man who revolutionized Food procurement and PDS in Chattisgarh through his innovativeness and conviction. We learnt that it is not necessary to do something extraordinary in order to leave a mark. Just doing one’s duties sincerely can mean a lot of service to the nation as many wheels in the administrative machinery don’t move just due to lackadaisical approach of some officers. Apart from these, we interacted with many other officers serving in capacity of collectors, directors, principal secretaries and chief secretaries. I felt that the individual personality of an officer defines in a great way the impact his or her office can make. More than postings, it is the person who fixes the scope of work. Also the attitude of an officer in dealing with public and other colleagues is highly noticeable and hence it is very important that one remains humble, polite but strong.

The highlight of the whole tour was a three day visit to Dantewada for tribal attachment. Amidst the preconceived notions, we expected Dantewada to be more like a forest with poor tribal population, blasted roads and Naxal flags all around with no developmental infrastructure to be seen. But instead, we found some of the best practices of administration that were exemplary in efficiency, financial congruency and innovation being implemented there. The endeavors such as Choolo Aasman, Saksham, Aastha, Bachpan Banao, Tamanna, Kshirsagar were bringing huge changes in the life of the people, especially the children. Here we realized what the real sense of service is and how IAS can make a difference. It was really a proud moment to attend the celebrations of India’s sovereignty – the Republic Day in this Naxal heartland.

We got deeper insights into the working of a PSU at HAL in Nashik, learnt about management of a Port Trust in Goa, understood the work culture of a private social enterprise at Jain Irrigation Ltd. at Jalgaon, appreciated the strength of a joint venture at Maithon Power Plant in Dhanbad and imbibed the dedication of an NGO from Tagore Society for Rural Development in Kolkata. We got acquainted with the industrious Marathi manoos whose honesty is worth emulating, we found great hosts in Punjabis who put their hearts out to serve their guests, we learnt the art of doing business from astute Sindhis of Mumbai and we took pride in the intellect of our Bengali brethren.

Learning was the core objective of this tour. But we made sure that fun also remains its integral component. We drenched ourselves in the natural beauty of ‘Incredible India’ during this tour. From the snow clad peaks of the Pir Panjal, to the pristine beaches of Goa, from the mangroves of Bhitarkanika to the dense forests of Jharkhand, from the brackish waters of Chilika Lake to the blue waters of Bay of Bengal, from the magmatic rocks of Western Ghats to the coral reefs of Andamans, we had it all. We also encountered largest salt water crocodiles basking in the sun, caught glimpse of the rare and playful Irrawady dolphins diving in synchronization, spotted the spotted deer lurking behind trees and clicked checkered keelback snakes slithering between leaves. We rediscovered India’s rich past and heritage in the centuries old caves of Ajanta and Udaygiri and temple remains of Konark, Shore, Mahabalipuram and Rajarani. We also found hidden treasure troves in relatively obscure forts of Bidar and Buddhist and Hindu monuments of Sirpur. We prayed for a better world at the altars of Harmandir Sahib, Jagannath Temple, Basilica of Bom Jesus and Haji Ali shrine. Here we also realized how much more we need to work to make India a tourist destination, be it in marketing our cities in India and abroad, or be it in preserving and keeping our monuments alive.

Any travelogue about India is incomplete without mention of food. We had the good fortune of eating the wholesome Punjabi food in Amritsar, tasting Sula wines in Nashik, cracking freshly cooked crabs in Goa, munching the Bhel puri of Mumbai, feasting on mouthwatering prawns in Port Blair and relishing Sandesh, Rosogulla and Nolengurer in Kolkata.

After the completion of Bharat Darshan, we were left with many learnings for future and some beautiful memories to be cherished. But what I believe is most important are the bonds of friendship that we made in these two months. i found some good friends in not just the people we met across India, but more importantly amongst our group of 17, friends that I hope shall stay forever.